Breaking Wave

Breaking wave

In fluid dynamics and nautical terminology, a break or breaker is a wave with enough energy to "break" at its peak, reaching a critical level at which linear energy transforms into wave turbulence energy with a distinct forward curve. At this point, simple physical models that describe wave dynamics often become invalid, particularly those that assume linear behaviour.

Wave

In mathematics and physical science, a wave is a propagating dynamic disturbance of one or more quantities. Periodic waves oscillate repeatedly about an equilibrium (resting) value at some frequency. When the entire waveform moves in one direction, it is said to be a traveling wave; by contrast, a pair of identical superimposed periodic waves traveling in opposite directions makes a standing wave. In a standing wave, the amplitude of vibration has nulls at some positions where the wave amplitude appears smaller or even zero.

breaking

Noun

1. The act by which something is broken.
2. A change of a vowel to a diphthong.

Verb

1. present participle and gerund of break

wave

Verb

1. To move back and forth repeatedly and somewhat loosely.
2. To move one's hand back and forth (generally above the shoulders) in greeting or departure.

Noun

1. A moving disturbance in the level of a body of liquid; an undulation.
2. The ocean.